It's the wind.

The wind is coming, and the waves are coming.

Ye Kai can predict weather changes within two or three hours by observing astronomical phenomena. This skill is far worse than the weather forecast, and others' weather forecast can predict one week.

But Ye Kaisheng is precise.

Dinan's observation ability is somewhat subtle and Ye Kai.

In fact, he didn't know whether he was looking at the clouds or the sea, but if there were big waves coming, he could have a premonition.

It's even more evil than Ye Kai.

Dinan said to Ye Kai: "Don't forget what we are here to do, we are here to surf. Have you ever promised me to remember? Come on, just this wave."

Compare previous experiences.

This wave is only five or six meters at most, and it is water flowing out, making it the safest type of sea wave. I can control it easily, but why am I so scared?

Two 300-meter-high buildings are one meter apart.

Looking down from the tall building, you can only see vehicles like ants, and even people can't see clearly. Only by having good eyesight can you see those small black spots.

Only one meter short.

Do you dare to jump from this side of the building to another building without protection? And you can also give you a long run-up. Even without a run-up, most people can jump for a standing distance of more than one meter, right?

Why don’t you dare to jump?

It's because I'm afraid of the one in ten thousand chance.

Ye Kai’s current feeling is to cross that meter. A three hundred-meter-high building can determine a person’s life and death. At this moment, can Ye Kai cross that meter in his heart?

As a brave person, or continue to bury the shadows and never get close to the sea again?

Perhaps there is a third possibility. Even if you muster up the courage to control this wave, you are still afraid of the ocean.

Dinan is not a psychiatrist.

However, Ye Kai thought of the national emblem of Australia, Kangaroo.

This kind of creature will never take a step back in its entire life, and will always move forward, forward, and forward again. This is also the spirit that Australians are proud of, and it is also the spirit that Ye Kai needs to learn now.

"Go up." Dinnan said.

The wave is coming soon, and the wind has already blew a long ripples on the sea surface. Now it is accumulating momentum at the bottom of the sea like pushing a snowball. Once it explodes, huge waves will definitely surge in a few seconds.

It would be too late to chase the waves at that time.

Ye Kai gritted his teeth tightly, lay on the surfboard, waving his stiff arms, and slowly swam forward.

At critical moments, muscles are indeed stronger than brains.

When Ye Kai was still panicking, his body's movements became more flexible.

His movements became more and more proficient, and soon came to the front of the wave. When the wave slightly raised the surfboard, Ye Kai supported his hands on the surfboard and stood on it in the most standard posture.

"Come on!" Dinnan shouted.

The wave finally got up, and suddenly a huge force gushed out of the water, quickly pushing Ye Kai's surfboard toward the front. The wave became higher and higher, and soon reached the limit of six meters.

Under the influence of this wave, Ye Kai also began to surf at different heights as the waves are strong.

At this time, Ye Kai had no time to think about other miscellaneous things.

He only has one thought now, that is, to rush to the waves like this. The ocean is dangerous? Of course, it is dangerous, but then wait until you leave this wave safely before thinking about the danger or not.

In fact, when Ye Kai was extremely afraid, his mind became clear.

Just like when he met a shark in Saipan, Ye Kai was frightened by the shark and almost forgot to breathe. At that time, he was extremely scared, and finally a chill came to his mind and he woke up instantly.

It is the reward from Jokhang Temple.

Ye Kai thought calmly.

After all his attention was concentrated, Ye Kai felt that the time around him began to slow down, and the surroundings became quiet, which could be said to be silent. The sound of the waves and Dinan's cheers could not be heard.

He is now 90 degrees with the waves, surfing in the direction of the waves.

Before the waves catch up with the leaves, surfing like this is the most comfortable.

All psychological shadows and mental illnesses become ineffective in the face of skills, and are faster than the best psychologists to treat them, and they will start to take effect in one second.

This effect will only occur when the fear in the heart reaches its extreme, which makes Ye Kai want to complain.

Is this the meaning of not destroying, not building, and then building?

However, it is precisely because of this skill that Ye Kai once again felt the fun and joy brought by surfing.

First of all, everyone should know that there is something in us called dopamine.

You can understand it as a happy neural signal. Whenever you are laughing and feeling happy, it is actually the dopamine in your body that is causing trouble.

After playing extreme exercise, a lot of dopamine will be produced on the body, which will make us feel happy and satisfied.

So it's-

Extreme exercise, addictive.

When the wave behind him was about to catch up with him, Ye Kai then turned to the corner of the waves to slide.

The waves several meters high fell down and hit the water surface. In addition to making a loud noise, they also hit the white waves more than ten meters high.

This wave is exhausted and is rapidly declining.

The rolling waves quickly approached Ye Kai. The waves behind him had already shown an O-shaped shape. The waves behind him fell on the water with powerful potential energy, leaving a space of two meters in diameter in the middle.

This is called Guanlang.

Ye Kai is now filled with water from all directions. He seems to have entered a time tunnel, with only an exit in front and no way out. Ye Kai must rush out from the hole in front to be called success.

He put his right hand on the water wall to his right, feeling the cold touch of the water flow quickly scraping through his fingers, and at the same time, his feet controlled the surfboard better.

The most important thing when rushing to a big wave is to have clear ideas and plan the route in advance. Before turning, you must consider the consequences of your turn, and the calculation ability is required.

Ye Kai, who was concentrating on surfing, heard the sound of a donkey at this time.

He almost thought he had auditory hallucinations, but soon Ye Kai found two penguins in the water on his right, as if they were going to play a game with Ye Kai.

He shouted at Ye Kai.

It turns out that the penguin's scream is like this, it's like the cry of a donkey.

But who dares to compete with you to swim?

Ye Kai ignored them and drove the surfboard toward the edge of the pipe wave, and finally drove out before the pipe wave was completely closed. The surfboard crossed the wave.

Following the remaining momentum, Ye Kai flew into the sky with his man and the board.

Then he fell into the water with a smile and choked a big mouthful of water.

The fear of the ocean has finally passed.

Dinan swam over and asked, "What's wrong? How do you feel now?"

"Thank you, Dinnan."

When Dinnan saw the expression on Ye Kai's face, he smiled and said, "I can't see a surfing genius die under my nose. You're fine now, are you?"

"Yes, I even want to play for a while!"

"ON." Dinan quickly rejected it, saying, "We have to go get our own camp. Do you want me to build two tents by myself and then make a fire to cook?"

Ye Kai pondered for a moment and said, "Then... what's wrong?"

“fuck.”

Dinan stretched out his middle finger to contempt.

But it was almost dark. Even if Ye Kai really asked Dinan to do all the preparations alone, it would not be too late to do all this before dark, so Ye Kai also accompanied Dinan back to the beach to build a camp.

The two divided the work and worked together. Dinan stayed in the camp to build a tent, while Ye Kai went into the forest to pick up some dry firewood to make a fire. Dinan brought a lot of instant canned food, and some raw meat on the car could be used as barbecue kebabs.

People feel refreshed when they are happy, and that skill called "a calmer heart" is really a magical skill in a sense.

Ye Kai's thought has evolved twice.

Perhaps after this time, Ye Kai could be closer to the point where Mount Tai collapsed before her face remained unchanged? When Ye Kai thought of this word, he suddenly thought of no desires and no desires.

Could it be that the final result of this skill evolution is that I have no desires and no desires?

horrible.

But no matter how you say it, it is just a guess. Ye Kai hasn't reached that kind of thing yet, and is frightened by his own guess to the point where he can't take care of himself.

So he put this guess aside and carefully searched for burning dry firewood in the forest.

Most of the trees in the forest are not easy to burn. You must carefully identify whether the leaves can burn before picking them up and holding them in your arms.

Since he discovered a spider, he checked the branches more carefully to see if there were any poisonous spiders hiding on it. Ye Kai has never been afraid of snakes or scorpions since childhood, but he is just afraid of this thing.

There are many eyes and feet, and they can also make webs with poisonous fangs. Photos of spiders have always been the shadow of Ye Kai's childhood.

After finding a large bundle, Ye Kai thought it should be enough, so he turned around and walked towards the beach. When he came, he kept following the path of the car, so he just walked along the road when he returned.
To be continued...